Step aside from garish logos (yes, the monogram belt included), there’s a new fashion movement in town – quiet luxury. From Gwyneth Paltrow’s stealth-luxe courtroom attire to Cousin Greg’s date, Bridget, rocking the “ludicrously capacious Burberry bag” in Succession, this trend is here to stay. But make no mistake, this isn’t a new concept. Think of pared-back stylings of brands like the Row, Joseph, Phoebe Philo’s Celine, Zegna and in the Indian context, Maharani Gayatri Devi’s chiffon sari worn with a two pearl string necklace.
Quiet luxury is somewhat akin to minimalism, where neutral colour palettes, classic silhouettes, investment pieces and functionality take precedence over the razzle-dazzle of in-your-face designer logos. But stealth wealth much more than that: almost like a window to your relationship with money and how you wish to be perceived by the world. In the realm of luxury, there are two distinct consumers: those who wear a price tag (logomania) and those whose discerning eye for quality and classic style reflect a life of refined taste.
Paltrow’s billionaire-chic wardrobe at her recent ski trial ranged from Italian label Loro Piana, The Row, Prada – echoing a “wealth whispers” vibe. Devoid of logos, her sartorial choices exuded understated luxury. Cut to: the scene from Succession when Bridget carries a Burberry tartan structured satchel to billionaire Logan Roy’s birthday. A bag that’s flashy and screams “I own a luxury handbag”. Tom ridicules the bag because in his world, if you’re accustomed to wealth, there’s no need to flaunt it. “Like any language, unless you are fluent in that language, you are likely to miss, misunderstand, or at least misinterpret the nuances.” Says Dr Carolyn Mair, Business Consultant and author of The Psychology of Fashion. “Although wearing fashion items with labels or logos eases communication, it would indicate a lack of taste for those ‘in the know’, where subtlety is considered superior, and why ‘bling’ is so popular among those with new money.”
One of the key characteristics of quiet luxury is that even though you’re wearing understated products, “only those in equally wealthy positions would recognise the monetary value of the item,” says Dr Mair. “It is a form of communication, and unification, among an equally wealthy group. We demonstrate our allegiance to our social groups, and distinguish ourselves from others, through multiple factors, but the most instant way is through visual communication, in other words, our clothing.” In other words, if you know, you know.
Fashion blogger, Brian Yambao has an interesting take on this trend, “Working in fashion and going to some of the most toe-curling exclusive events in the past two decades allowed me to meet so many wealthy people of all stripes — millionaires, billionaires, children of billionaires, new money, old money, you name it. Couture clients. Couture collectors with so much old money but amusingly questionable taste. Women — and men — with obscene jewelry and wardrobes. And let me tell you in layman terms, there is no standardized way in the manner of how they dress. They’re equally as chic and as awfully tacky (or fabulously vulgar) as someone with lesser economic means. Signaling goes both ways. A “poor” person who wants to look their idea of “rich” by buying branded/logoed items are on the same boat as someone living paycheck to paycheck and paying for their Loro Piana or The Row coat on minimum amount due installment month by month… for a year! And there’s absolutely nothing wrong with either. A billionaire I know even told me “Loro Piana is for Russian hookers in Courchevel”. I also know people coming from generational wealth who shop at H&M and Zara. You do you!”
While fashion trends are known to be cyclical and reflections of the economy, with the current recession, stealth wealth seems on point. But if stealth wealth is your style for a season or a lifetime, does it permeate all aspects of one’s lifestyle? Home décor, travel, the content shared on Instagram. Come to think of it, would you even be on Instagram?
Words by: Avani Purohit