Portugal’s capital has become a trendy destination in recent years – especially since Madonna moved there in 2017. Since then, celebrities and tourists from all over the world have flocked to Lisbon chasing it’s golden sunsets, pastéis de nata and bubbling cultural scene. And as the city’s creative pulse grows louder, Lisbon Fashion Week has emerged as one of its most exciting cultural exports, reflecting the same mix of heritage and modernity that defines the city itself.
The Portuguese are known for being nostalgic, but the secret behind the current hype the country is experiencing lies in taking the old and making it new. Soulful fado music gets mixed with electronic beats, the traditional bacalhau recipes get a modern twist in award-winning restaurants like Belcanto and Marlene and street art lives side-by-side with illustrious buildings – most of which have been transformed into boutique hotels. But what about fashion? Outside of the Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon’s version of Paris’ Champs-Élysées, there are small, resilient pockets of Portuguese designers spread across trendy areas like Príncipe Real and Chiado. Twice a year, they all come together to show their work in ModaLisboa, or Lisboa Fashion Week (LxFW), Portugal’s longest running fashion event.
Since 1991, established names have shared the runway with rising talents eager to make their mark. Backed by the city of Lisbon, the event goes beyond the catwalk, featuring art exhibitions, workshops and talks centred around craftsmanship and sustainability, the core values that define contemporary Portuguese fashion.
currentMood went to LxFW and came back with a wishlist of pieces that live rent free in our heads.
ARNDES
Leaning heavily into leather ARNDES showed a strong woman that is not afraid to show a softer side. The designer is a past winner of Sangue Novo (which literally translates to New Blood, LxFW’s new talent competition). This jumpsuit was made for Bond girls and elegant movement. A master in female silhouette.
Shop: Arndes
Dino Alves
The jackets from Dino Alves were beautifully cut and the contrast trimming added an extra layer of cool. This is no spring chicken. The designer has been presenting in LxFW since 1997 and has a cult following, particularly with the artistic crowd.
Shop: Dino Alves
Dino Alves
Bows anyone? These bondage bows paired with flowy fabrics in Dino Alves look like how a Lana Del Rey song feels.
Shop: Dino Alves
Gonçalo Peixoto
Sexy and soft like melting ice-cream. This shirt from Gonçalo Peixoto adds texture to an oversized fit. For a designer that makes pieces that are inherently seductive, oversizing is a welcomed balancing act.
Shop: Gonçalo Peixoto
Gonçalo Peixoto
In Gonçalo Peixoto’s universe, women are always ready to leave the party. This jacket will go anywhere. The designer is from Porto, in northern Portugal, but has been a part of LxFW’s official calendar since 2018.
Shop: Gonçalo Peixoto
Luís Carvalho
A suit made for mergers and acquisitions in hot destinations. Silky tailoring by Luís Carvalho, winner of GQ Portugal’s Men of the Year award for Best Fashion Designer, who has also shown at Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Shop: Luís Carvalho
Nuno Baltazar
The most beautiful colours layered in unexpected combinations in Nuno Baltazar’s SS26 collection. The designer was one of the first winners of LxFW’ new talent competition, Sangue Novo, in 1996. Almost three decades later, it is impossible to think of Portuguese fashion without mentioning his name.
Shop: Nuno Baltazar
Nuno Baltazar
Classic femininity was updated by Nuno Baltazar mixing textures and materials, day and night. His take on womenswear comes with a healthy dose of drama and lots of glamour. He designs regularly for theatre, cinema and red carpet events.
Shop: Nuno Baltazar
Nuno Baltazar
Nuno Baltazar’s menswear kept the same playful spirit as his womenswear. Even though the designer mainly creates with the female shape in mind, he also seems to enjoy wondering into menswear every so often.
Shop: Nuno Baltazar
Lidija Kolovrat
Graphic imagery meets see-through fabrics for summer looks that tell stories about distant locations. Lidija Kolovrat’s collection was inspired by a stone, and yet the pieces evoque movement. In the designer’s own words: “Just stop trying to understand everything”.
Shop: Lidija Kolovrat
Lidija Kolovrat
There was an ethereal quality to how Lidija Kolovrat used transparency to create visible auras around women’s bodies. The designer established her brand, Kolovrat, in 1990, but has never lost the experimental aspect of her work.
Shop: Lidija Kolovrat
Lidija Kolovrat
A print that will flatter most skin tones and dispositions. Lidija Kolovrat brings urban culture and art to her runways.
Shop: Lidija Kolovrat
Lidija Kolovrat
For mysterious ladies of the night with a flair for architecture and a taste for red wine. An artist at heart, Lidija Kolovrat uses fashion to create timeless, emotional pieces.
Shop: Lidija Kolovrat
Mestre Estúdio
This look from Mestre Estúdio is asking for sand dunes and a breeze. Two things that are hard to find in the designer’s hometown in Alentejo from where he takes scenes and objects to feature in his knitwear pieces.
Shop: Mestre Estúdio
Bárbara Atanásio
Grunge gets a well needed update in Bárbara Atanásio’s SS26 collection. The designer has worked with Portuguese success story Marques’Almeida and jeweller extraordinaire Valentim Quaresma and brings their core elements, denim and metalwork, into her obsession with up-cycling.
Shop: Bárbara Atanásio
All images courtesy: Lisbon Fashion Week