Issey Miyake was a revolutionary Japanese designer, known for his famed melding of technology and fashion to create beautiful garments. His iconic collections including Pleats Please and 132 5. are a few revolutionary lines that made their presence felt in the fashion world. Creating designs that prioritized comfort and functionality, and employing techniques that allowed him to transform 3D forms into 2D surfaces, Miyake’s creations have become highly coveted collector’s items. One of his greatest admirers was entrepreneur Mina Krishnan, Founder of Lotus Synergy Pvt. Ltd, and founder chairperson of the Indian Direct Selling Association, who prided in collecting his designs. After Mina’s passing, her husband Mohan Krishnan and daughter Ayesha decided to share her collection of nearly 70 Miyake garments with the public.
This extensive collection of outfits is being showcased at the 47-A Design Gallery in Mumbai’s, Kotachiwadi’s heritage environs. The exhibition, titled ‘Clothes that Changed the World: Mina Krishnan’s Collection of Issey Miyake’, has been curated by Ratan J. Batliboi, with proceeds being donated to CRY (Child Rights and You), an organisation that Mina had long supported. Art and fashion enthusiasts will appreciate the passion that inspired these acquisitions. According to Batliboi, “The clothes became the catalysts to our research on Miyake’s ‘monozukuri’- his way of doing things. The pieces offered insights into the specific manufacturing process employed and the desired impact they sought. We loved almost every piece and yet we had to choose to allow for the curation of a story.”
The exhibition sheds light on Miyake’s garment-making technique, which he invented and introduced to the fashion world. “As you explore 47-A beyond the introductory room you witness three evolutions of the Miyake label,” explains Batliboi.” Starting with a dress that graphically represents the New York skyline, moving on to a Petit Four tunic dress created by sophisticated manipulation of surfaces and folds and concluding with the distinct red jacket and strappy dress from the 132 5. Line. This dress is origami-like in its folding pattern, enabling it to collapse while packing and rise into unique presentations when draped over the body. The addition of pressing foil into select folds adds to the drama, when viewed in the light. Every piece offers a glimpse into Miyake’s genius and Mina’s patronage of it.”
The exhibition features numerous limited-edition and vintage pieces from the signature Issey Miyake label and the aforementioned collections, introducing both connoisseurs and newcomers to the designer’s art. Think exquisite pleats, flowing ensembles, and timeless, crisp, springy garments whose texture remains the same even after being folded and unfolded from a suitcase. The exhibit offers a historical lesson in style, showcasing the designer’s work and his challenge to established norms. Miyake had the courage to entirely reimagine a garment, and his designs had a profound impact on the fashion world. Krishnan recognized their potential early on, and photographs depict her lounging around in Miyake’s designs, including a pair complete with the hat and glasses that had become her trademark. The bemused expression on her face reveals that she was always the perfect model for the quirky designs, never missing a beat.
“Mina admired Miyake and shopped for his clothes over many years,” notes Batliboi. “For her, his clothes were like a second skin – equally good for concerts and grocery runs, travels, or a stay-at-home evening with friends. She wore the collections with great joy – in the spirit that Miyake intended them to be worn.”
Clothes that Changed the world: Mina Krishnan’s collection of Issey Miyake, from 25th February – March 20th at 47-A Khotachiwadi, Mumbai.
Words by: Maithili Chakravarthy
Image courtesy: 47-A Design Gallery
