currentMood documents the manufacturing process of these designers.
Label: URVASHI KAUR
Why we love it:
The marriage of indigenous Indian elements and contemporary designs are the brand’s USP.
“Each fabric that I use has its unique language and texture, to which I am drawn to and it’s important for me to let that come across even as a finished garment.” Urvashi Kaur
Process:
Urvashi works closely with various weavers, craftsmen and NGO’s across the country to discover the wealth of raw materials India has to offer. She uses handloom textiles such as khadi, sheer kota doriya, zari linen and jamdani cotton. Different dyeing processes – shibori, tie & dye, batik and intricate hand made textures like chikankari, kantha stitches, hand frayed hems add to the labels unique design aesthetic.
“I travel extensively and am always looking at the distinct textiles of each region I visit. I find a deep connect in the stories of people and the textiles they weave.” Urvashi Kaur
Documentation:
Kota doriya drop-waist pleated dress with chikankari pattern, paired with sheer pants in the same technique. The fabric was developed in Rajasthan.
Photographer: Ryan Martis, Artist: Sudheer Rajbhar
Sustainability Pact:
They employ local craftsmen and artisans so that age old techniques can be nurtured and developed further. A happy workforce and fair wages form an intrinsic part of their work ethic. They follow a zero waste policy by ensuring that all resources created for the label including the textiles, are manufactured exactly as per the usage.
Label: ANITA DONGRE – GRASSROOT
Why we love it:
Grassroot celebrates craft and people behind the scenes of mainstream fashion. It takes inspiration from indigenous crafts that serve as the take-off point for design.
“I wanted to start a brand that served a greater purpose along with fine design. Grassroot is a brand where the craft is the hero.” – Anita Dongre
Process:
Grassroot works across craft clusters, each of which have their own specialty – varied cottons from kala and khadi to fine bhujodi and jamdhani weaves.
“One of the first steps in working with artisans is visiting them and understanding their work. At this stage we might discuss innovations with the artisans.” Anita Dongre
Documentation:
A Bhujodi cotton dress that was woven by the label’s master weaver, Vinod. This fabric took almost three months to create, with all the details that make this Bhujodi weave so special.
Photographer: Ryan Martis, Artist: Sudheer Rajbhar
Sustainability Pact:
The label strives to provide fashion that people would truly love and wear more than a couple of times. The collection is made entirely by hand skilled artisans, significantly reducing carbon foot- print, while promoting local crafts and communities.
“I currently work with 20 craft clusters and independent artisans across India.” Anita Dongre
They are conscious of the waste produced, follow a strict no wastage policy and reuse water. Even their office space boasts of large windows and balconies, high ceilings and vents that help reduce electricity consumption.
Label: ANAVILA
Photo Courtesy: Shivam Misra
Why we love it:
Anavila translates to “pure” in Sanskrit. And as the name suggests, the label is all about pure sustainable luxurious textiles. Over the last few years, Anavila has created a design vocabulary that is contemporary and on-the- go-chic. The label focuses on the development and creation of new fabric blends, textiles and textures.
“In our endeavours to make our collections eco friendly and comfortable we are always working on developing blends and textures which are both aesthetically and technologically advanced.” Anavila Misra
Process:
Anavila works very closely with its clusters – unique weaves and loom processes are key. One can choose from a range of exquisite cottons, silks and linens.
“Weaving is where my heart is .. ofcourse, it’s also beautiful to finally style and present your collection in a meaningful way.” Anavila Misra
Documentation:
A linen tunic with organic voile trimming. The linen fabric was handwoven in West Bengal while the voile is from Coimbatore.
Photographer: Ryan Martis, Artist: Sudheer Rajbhar
Sustainability Pact:
The label follows fair trade practices and works with artisanal communities to create eco conscious clothing. So what makes them a sustainable brand? Their raw materials are ethically sourced, en- sure good working conditions for their employees and they continuously work with artisans and weavers – thus strengthening the local communities.
Written & Compiled by: currentMood